Why Did My Client's Henna Brows Turn Orange? Demystifying the Science Behind It

For many Brow Technicians, the experience of seeing a client's eyebrows turn an unexpected shade of orange after a henna application can be unsettling and cause panic for both yourself and your clients, but don’t worry, it is completely normal. This detailed guide aims to clarify why this happens, grounded in the scientific aspects of henna and its interaction with natural elements, particularly through the process of oxidation. By understanding this, you can reassure your clients and ensure their satisfaction with the henna brow tinting experience.

Introduction to Henna in Brow Tinting

Henna, derived from the leaves of the Lawsonia inermis plant, is celebrated for its rich, natural colouring properties that have been used for centuries. In the realm of brow tinting, henna offers a desirable semi-permanent solution that appeals to clients looking for a natural enhancement of their eyebrows. However, despite its benefits, the application of henna can occasionally result in an initial colour change that may alarm both technicians and clients.

The Chemistry of Henna Oxidation

Understanding the oxidation process is crucial for any Brow Technician. Oxidation is the chemical reaction that occurs when the henna dye, which is inherently colourless, is exposed to oxygen in the air. This exposure triggers the dye to develop and deepen, transforming from a lighter hue to its final colour. Immediately after removing the henna paste, the brows may display a bright orange tint, a normal phase in the colour development that is often misunderstood.

Why Orange?

The orange hue seen after the henna application is not the dye itself but a transitional phase. The lawsone molecule, the dye released by henna leaves, is initially colourless and becomes pigmented only when oxidised. This molecule reacts differently depending on several factors:

Skin Type: The oil content and pH of the skin can affect how henna stains the skin and oxidises.

Application Consistency: The thickness of the henna paste and its consistency can also affect the oxidation rate.

Environmental Influence: Ambient air conditions such as humidity and temperature play a significant role in the speed and uniformity of the oxidation process.

Factors That Influence the Oxidation Rate

Several external factors can alter the way henna oxidises on the skin, affecting the initial and final colour:

Skin Type: Dry or oily, each skin type interacts uniquely with henna.

Environmental Conditions: High humidity and warmer temperatures can accelerate the oxidation process, whereas cooler, drier conditions can slow it down.

Application Tools: Using the right tools is critical. For instance, mixing henna in a glass dish as opposed to a metal one is essential to prevent unwanted chemical reactions that could affect the dye's properties.

Managing Expectations: Client Education and Aftercare

One of the most critical roles of a brow technician is managing client expectations. Clients should be informed that the orange tint is a natural and temporary part of the henna's development on their skin, and is not a cause for concern. Clarify that the final colour will appear within several hours to a day, and the initial orange will fade to reveal the true shade.

Proper aftercare is crucial for achieving the best results. Advise clients to avoid moisture and not touch the area excessively for the first 24 hours. Suggest gentle, non-alcoholic cleansers to avoid disrupting the brow area. For a complete guide to henna brows aftercare, you can check out this blog.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with the best application practices, issues may arise. Here are some troubleshooting tips:

Orange Tint Persists:If the orange tint does not fade, this might be due to the henna mixing process or the type of henna used. Ensure that the henna mix is not too acidic or alkaline, as this can affect the end colour.

Patchy Colour Development: This can occur due to uneven application or skin type differences. Ensure a consistent application and consider pre-treatment to normalise skin pH levels.

While the sight of orange brows post-henna application might initially cause concern, understanding the natural oxidation process allows Technicians to reassure clients effectively. By educating clients about what to expect and how to care for their henna brows, Brow Technicians can turn a moment of worry into an opportunity for education and enhanced client trust.